i’m from there… Well, kinda. I went to high school in Houston and so in the scope of things I was really was only there for a few years. My parents no longer live there — so that’s my excuse (see below). I think no matter where you live there’s always more to discover but I have to admit as an “artist” I’m thoroughly embarrassed that I just found this gem. My cousin Allison is finishing up her PhD at Rutgers (so proud) and this weekend she was in visiting from New York. She has studied all over the world and seen so many amazing things but still one of her TOP places to visit was the Rothko Chapel in Houston, Texas of all places. Needless to say, I was shocked that I had never been, let alone not KNOWN about it. And I call myself an artist?? The experience was… tough. Allison told me this was Rothko’s last major work before he took his life in 1970.

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Rothko Chapel

As you walk up to the chapel, you are graced with the overwhelming presence of three tons of Cor-Ten steel. More importantly known as Broken Obelisk by Barnett Newman (one of Allison’s FAVORITE artists). Newman was a contemporary of Rothko but not as well known. It’s stunning. This piece was cast three times, the first cast for the Corcoran Gallery in Washington, DC, the second for the permanent collection of MOMA in New York and then this one in Houston.

Let me say upon arrival I would not call this welcoming. First of all, I get no touching of the paintings and no cell, video, laptop but photography? Can someone please explain to me why we aren’t allowed to photograph art? I mean, I get it. But what a shame - so all of these photographs are a collage of images that are mine and images found via google images. And I wouldn’t call the front door welcoming either. I digress… So upon entering you see a schmorgezboard of spiritual literature - which is honestly pretty cool. I’m not sure if I’ve ever stumbled onto this many different kinds of religious reading materials in one place.

So - to the most important part, Rothko, the paintings. This project was commissioned by two incredible art patrons, Dominique and John de Menil, to house fourteen paintings specifically created for this “meditative space.” They are HUGE, dark, dramatic, engulfing but as Allison kept saying “they push back.” It was so strange to me to stand in this space, designed by Rothko (along with architects Philip Johnson, Howard Barnstone and Eugene Aubry), and then to stare longingly for thoughts, answers, meaning in the paintings that essentially were Rothko’s last words. So strange…

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Byzantine Fresco Chapel

As we were walking up to the Rothko Chapel I saw the Byzantine Fresco Chapel Museum out of the corner of my eye. Another jewel of the Menil Collection. A beautifully modern architectural building hosting thirteenth-century frescoes. Bizarre but fabulous. This was Dominique de Menil’s last major project completed in her lifetime. Read more details about this installation here. Again no photos so this is a collaboration of google images and a few that I took.

Loved this signage marking the entry. It’s a huge cylinder and the type was engraved. Stunning and unusual. Very architectural. The Frescoes are surrounded by super thick frosted glass that feels like a modern day sanctuary or chapel. Marvelous.

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The Menil Collection

And finally, we scooted down the street to the official, the astounding and very serious home to the collection of Houston philanthropists and art collectors John and Dominique de Menil,  The Menil Collection. The range of artists is tremendous. Our favorite piece from the permanent collection was a Warhol that was a black on black silkscreen of an electric chair.

We were lucky enough to catch the last days of the very peculiar work of italian artist Maurizio Cattelan. I think this was our favorite from the traveling work. These are white carrara marble carved to look like bodies under sheets. It looked so unbelievably real, exquisitely executed. I can’t imagine what they weigh. I literally thought that someone was going to come out from under the sheet. So strange but so cool.